I left Hiawasee in the morning after a large breakfast of eggs, hash browns, and a half-dozen pancakes topped with the farms own home-made blueberry syrup. I resupplied out of Hiawasee with 3 days of food- 2 dinners, and 3 breakfasts + lunches- to take me all the way to Franklin, NC. The trail took a much different character as soon as I crossed the GA/NC line. I was met with 2 consecutive 750 ft 30% grade climbs. Grade is the angle the trail is inclined, so the higher the percent, the steeper. And usually on the trail, in order to alleviate hellish climbs, the trail maintainers will create switch backs. Switch backs trade off steepness for length. Rather than climbing straight up a ridge for .5 miles, you can make a switchback zig-zaging up the mountain to make a 1 mile climb. The good folks in North Carolina will have nothing of those, so I just climbed straight up. But once that was over, the trail eased out on top of the ridgeline. I was privilidge to watch the "Super Moon" rise on top of Standing Indian Mountain- along with a fire and a long poem recited by a hiker named Cheap Chardonnay that begun, "Strange things have been done, beneath the midnight sun..."
The hiked big days into Franklin, an 18 mile day and then a 19 mile, because the trail leveled out to some extent and the terrain was easy. Not much to note of Franklin. I hitched a ride into town with a woman from New York City who drove down to North Carolina for therapeutic breathing classes. I resupplied for another 3 days to get me to Fontana Dam- the gateway to the Smokies. Although the ride in and out of town was long, I still was able to hike 15 miles that day to Wayah Bald. There I had my first experience with cowboy camping. On clear nights, when you know it will not rain, one can sleep out in the open. I slept in the grass in the cold win, with my sleeping bag head completely cinched, leaving on my eyes and nose poking out into the world to feast my eyes upon the rich starry sky.
The next day took me less than half of mile before the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center). I decided to take a nero (near-zero) into there and spend the night in the bunk. I am glad I did because that night there were was a tornado down in the valley! I spent the day relaxing down by the river, watching kayakers paddle, and caught up on my journal.
The next night was a tremendous 7 mile up hill back up the mountains. I must attribute my success to the half-dozen hard boiled eggs that I brought along with me. That night I tented further down the trail and woke up to snow!
THE GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
The park was easily the creme de la creme of the southern Appalachians. The trail spends most of the time upwards of 5,000 ft- peaking at 6400 at Clingman's Dome. I trail became far more strenuous with bigger climbs, harsher weather, and slippery terrain. I hiked out on my 5th day, and 4 of those days were rain. The hikers a week before got snow, and the hikers a week after got snow as well. I was on a off week. But despite the grim conditions, the Smokies are the last untouched forests in the South East. I spotted two white tail doe in the first 5 miles of the park. And since they do not allow hunting, the doe have no fear of humans. On my third day, I saw a lone coyote slinking his way back into the woods. The third day is the day there was no rain, and it made up for everything. The ridge walks had long long views. I could watch the thick clouds amble on through the valleys and engulf the lower peaks. (I will have pictures up hopefully tomorrow!)
I must mention Gatlinburg. Imagine the Ocean City boardwalk: the Ripley tourist trap, mini-golf, airbrushed t-shirts, fudge and funnel cake. Now put that in a country town with the sublime backdrop of the Smoky Mountains. I only spent a few hours there getting food. It made me miss home.
NORTH CAROLINA/ TENNESSEE
All good things must come to an end. I descended back into the regular state parks at meager elevations of 2,000 to 3,000. But it also meant that Hot Springs would be only 3 days away; the famous Hot Springs home of the therapeutic spa and baths- a shining beacon of light and hope after the weary hiking in the Smokies. But before I could get there, I was hit by the surprise April Fools' Snowstorm. On the 31st, I walked over Max Patch, in good weather is one of thru-hikers' favorite spots on the trail. But when I went over it, the weather did not let me see farther than 20 feet with a harsh wintery mix stinging my face with gusts of 40 mph. And the next morning there was 3 inches of snow, and a chilling cold. Snow makes for slow hiking because the ground is very slippery and the trail is harder to locate if there are not well blazed sections. But I managed to trudge through the snow to Hot Springs. The baths were stellar and cheap.
But only 2 days after leaving Hot Springs, there was another snow storm! That day put me over Big Bald. I swear I felt like I was walking on the planet Hoth. The wind was so strong I could lean into it. But after building a big fire, I warmed up a bit. I resupplied in Erwin, TN off of extra food other hikers left behind in commons we call Hiker Boxes. Think of a Take a Penny- Leave a Penny, except with ramen noodles and instant mash potatoes. After leaving Erwin, I summited Roan Moutain- the last mountain over 6000 until I reach New Hampshire- a sweat pouring, exhausting climb.
After a stroll over long, beautiful balds south of Roan, I stopped in at the famous Kincora $4 hostel, run by the illustrious Bob Peoples. He is a trail legend, known for his dedication to the trail as a maintainer, and his annual Hard Core Maintenance Crew who have, in the past, put up shelters in a day and a half. He is a good man. I curled up in a chair with a blanket by a wood stove for some hours.
Following Kincora is a 50 miles section of trail known as the "Tennessee Super Highway". It is 50 miles of flat, gentle, ridge line walking straight into Damascus, VA. I did 17 miles the first day, but yesterday, I could not hold back and I walked the full 33 miles into town. I saw my first bear last night too! I was only 1.5 miles outside of town, and the sun had just set over the mountains, but there was still enough atmospheric light and light from the room to see. I heard a grunt and looked ahead of me. I saw 2 glowing eyes about 25 feet away from me, and a big silver body. The bear, once he saw me, galloped into the woods to the right with heavy steps. I did not have my headlamp on neck, so I just started to sing "Swing Low Sweet Chariot" as loud as I could, while I ran my butt into town. And now I am here. 3 states down, only 11 more to go!
I send my love to my friends and family back home. I will be in Damascus today and tomorrow. There is supposed to be an awful storm with 70 mph winds coming in tonight. So give me a call! If you don't have my number it is 443 614 2397. Love you!
