New Hampshire + Maine

Hello out there! I write this to you quickly in Stratton, Maine. I am currently two weeks out of Katahdin. I will have one more opportunity to write in a few days from Monson. Monson is the town just before the 100 Mile Wilderness, so that will be my last chance to give y'all some posts.

So I guess I promised to talk about New Hampshire. I will start at the beginning in Hanover. The state border is on a beautiful bridge over top the Connecticut River. Just before crossing, the trail has a rather long road walk. I passed a house with a cooler under the mail box and a sign that read Trail Magic. This was the house of a thru-hiker from years past. There was banana bread and a rare treat, watermelon! Hanover is a nice little town. Home of Dartmouth-- very classy Ivy League sort of place. My first hour in town was spent hopping from business to business to reap in the swag. The coffee shop gives free coffee, there was free pizza, bagels, snickers, donuts, sandwiches! The day was enjoyed on the campus green tossing the frisbee and playing it cool.

The trail becomes much harder once it leaves Hanover. I got a taste of the Whites climbing atop Smarts Mtn. and Mt. Cube. I had done this section before last summer with NP. I didn't remember it being so challenging. It might have been the 90 degree weather, but I could not be sure. I was able to visit the Ice Cream Man, a fellow who lives 50 ft off the trail. He has been giving ice cream and water to hikers for over a decade. The last summer I met him, it was a Saturday evening and he and his wife were listening to the Prairie Home Companion. He told me and NP that is what he called his wife, his "Home Companion". Sadly though, his wife had passed on since the previous summer. I spent a half hour on his front porch chatting with him over coffee and ice cream about the trail resemblance to the epic journeys of the past-- recalling Homer's Illiad and the travels endured by merchants on the Silk Road. He is a wise man and I hope to see him in the future.

I climbed my first White Mtn. of the trip and the end of my day-- Moosilauke. The heat had been so unbearable that I had stopped at 4 o'clock at the Hikers Welcome Hostel in Glencliff to sip on soda and water to wait for the heat of the day to pass. I climbed up with Gingersnap and Grasshopper. We slept on top of the mountain in these small stone enclaves that some past hikers had built to shield against the wind. The sunset was amazing. In the middle of the night it started to rain. I did not want to hike out, so I just rolled over and pulled my ground tarp over top of my sleeping bag. The rain kept me up, drizzling on my face, so when I saw the sun peaking over the eastern ridge, I was ready to roll on out. The sunrise was a vivid red. I turned around to look to the west and I saw a bolt of lightning. I was ready to head down into the valley.

The descent on the northern face of Moosilauke is notoriously steep and dangerous in the wet. I made it down and waiting for me in the parking lot was trail magic! A fellow thru-hiker Hermes has summited earlier that week and came back to cook up some hot dogs and drink some coke. Yummy! North and South Kinsman were the next day, providing stunning views of the Franconia Ridge and Lafayette. I stayed in Lincoln and a hostel run by a fellow named Chet.

The Franconia Ridge! The morning before I hitched out, I was told there was a chance of afternoon showers but that wasn't going to stop me hiking. The ridge is the first extended hike above treeline. Trees stop growing at about 4200 ft in New Hampshire, due to the roughness of the elements at that level. As I approached Lafayette, the first 5000 footer in NH, I watched the storm clouds swirl around both sides of the ridge. When I got on the other side, the wind hit. I would reckon around 50 mph. Almost fast enough to knock me off of my feet. The rain started to come in side ways. It began to mix with hail. I knew I had to get below tree line fast! As I was making my way back down towards Garfield, it began to snow! July 25th! I called it Christmas in July. I survived and did a work for stay and the Galehead Hut on the other side of Mount Garfield. Chicken and Rice for dinner with coconut brownies and pancakes in the morning was well worth the hour of work.

I feel like I could just go on and on. The next highlight was the Presidential Range. I stayed the day before in Bartlett, with a friend from school who grew up there. As I was climbing up out of the Crawford Notch, I found a pair of eyeglasses on a particularly difficult rock scramble. I recognized them as my friend's, Stanley Thermos. I got to Mitzpah Hut, just before the trail breaks out of tree line, and asked if they saw Stanley. They said he was here about an hour ago, but left quickly. It was raining quite hard and I had some intention of staying at Mitzpah, but I knew I couldn't leave a brother without eye sight, so I pressed on the famous Lakes of the Clouds. This 4.5 miles stretch was nothing but cold, wet, windy white out. I could see maybe 20 feet in front of me, just enough to make out the next cairn (a pile of rocks to indicate where the trail goes). I made it to Lakes of the Clouds and returned the glasses to Stanley. We were the only two thru-hikers there that night. We ate well!

The next day was unbelievable. I left Lakes of the Clouds in the best of weather. I was atop Mount Washington in 75 degree weather, 5 mph winds, and 100 mile visibility. It was as if the whole world was laid out before me. I spent a very leisurely slow day waltzing across the Presidential Range. I kept finding myself twirling around to look back at Washington, to look back at the trail that I had already done. All the rocks made perfect benches. I happily ate ginger bread as I looked at Maine and Vermont. I caught up with Stanely at the Madison Hut. We ate not a few bowls of soup for lunch. Despite the pleasure of the soul the day provided, the trail was still physically demanding, and we found ourselves very tired as we descended into Pinkham Notch. We found a small body of water, Lost Pond, as the sun was setting and we set up tent.

I was lying in my tent reading Don Quixote when Stanely asks me do I hear that. There was a crashing coming through the woods towards our tents. It sounded as if a small bulldozer was clearing out a stretch, with logs cracking and trees falling over. I got out of my tent and look puzzled into the woods with our headlamps trying to catch a view of this thing. The sound was coming from only ten feet away, and with both of our headlamps on, we couldn't see it. Then I saw a pair of eyes reflecting back at me, 3 feet from the ground. I said to Stanley, "I think it is a bear! Time to be brave!" We started making loud noises and throwing rocks and logs in its direction. But then the eyes rose to my eye level and only then could I make out the antlers. "Stanley! Its a moose! We gotta get out of here!" We ran back in the direction of our tents and let the moose amble on by. Obviously it was either unaware or apathetic of our attempts at intimidation. It continued walking into the pond and then we got a good look at it. The sun had just set, so the water was still giving off some light, and I saw a massive silhouette of a bull-moose standing knee deep in the water. My heart was beating fast and the bull ambled on away.

This is all I can write for now. Forgive my errors, I do not have time to edit, as I must get back on the trail. Until next time!

Pennsylvania to New Hampshire

Pennsylvania

Back again! As I was saying in my previous post, Pennsylvania hurt. It was a 250 mile stretch of flat, razor sharp rocks. I started in Harper's Ferry two weeks after I had taken time off the trail, so all the people I was meeting were the folks who were much slower than me. It was very pleasent. A very common thru-hiker phenomenon is the instant reunion. You may be strolling into a town or a lean-to and bump into a fellow hiker that you haven't seen in 1000 miles. After that it is all hugs and  reminicising. My first week into Penn, I was hiking faster, 20+ mile days on avg., and everyday I would meet someone I had not seen in ages. A whole list of personalities and names: Delaware Dave, Lohner Bohner, Sherpa, Switchback, Crazy Horse, Six String, Disco, John Wanye, Beanpole, Schmuck. Since the terrain was so grim in Penn, the people really helped me out to get trhough the state. I met an amazing woman by the name of Trailangel Mary, a resident of Duncannon, who has been taking in hikers, giving shuttles, and leaving coolers of drinks on the trail. You can see her in the movie "Trail Angels". But I was glad to leave the state and entering into the swampy, wet, mosquito ridden...

New Jersey

I have gone through the state of New Jersey before and I enjoyed it. There is a 1 miles long boardwalk through a swamp land (sadly devoid of spray tans and funnel cakes); a stretch through a bird reserve that attracts photographers from all over the east coast and the beautiful ice-cold, glacial Sunfish Pond. But, when I went through the state this year, it was nothing but rain and mosquitos. At times, the rain would be heavy enough to keep the bugs away, but as it let up, the bugs would come back in full force. It did work as an incentive to continue hiking because stopping was not an option. I was thrilled, climbing over slippery rocks in a cloud when I crossed the line into...

New York

Empire State of Mind! After the easy topography of the last 400 miles of mid-atlantic hills, New York throws some climbs at you. But before I tackled the most of the state, I took a 3 day vacation into the Big City. The biggest culture shock I have ever felt was walking directly off the trail onto the Harriman Metro North station, and taking a metal box into the middle of Penn Station to Manhattan. I met up with my friend from St. John's, Chris. He was staying at a mutual friend's house in Jersey. I was welcome to stay there for shower and laundry. It was a silly weekend of running around the city, talking to strangers, hanging out on rooftops and back yards. But I had to return to the trail. The trail dips to its lowest point of 124ft above sea level in Bear Mountain Zoo, marked by the bear cage, but when I passed thru, the animals were all put away. I then crossed the Hudson River over top a big, big bridge. It was somewhat disturbing as I crossed the bridge, I noticed the Suicide Prevention Telephones, two of them on the bridge. The day following my visit to the city, I stayed at a Franciscan Monastary. They opened there baseball field to hikers. A cold, cold shower after a hot day is all I needed. The states drop off left and right, and before I knew it I had crossed into...

Connecticut

I can not say enough good things about this state. The first day I walked in, I was given trail magic (random acts of kindness and generosity given to thru-hikers) of a tunafish sub, potato chips, and a Arnold Palmer. And to top it off, I was given an American flag (which I still have). No more than ten miles later Drumsolo, Arthur Dent, The Dude and his dog Kateano, and I found a clear creek, perfect for a summer dip. Dent has also packed out some Budweiser. It tastes better sitting on a rock in the middle of a river! Some thru-hikers attempt the Connecticut marathon of a full 52 mile day through the whole state. I would disagree and say, take your time because it is wonderful. Fourth of July was fast approaching and on independence day I found myself in...

Massachusetts

Less than a month ago, and it already seems so far away. I teamed up with my buddy Drumsolo, a State College native and Penn State student (Go Lions!), and we both were, and still are on a deadline, so we had a plan to do 20s until New Hampshire. We spent the Fourth in Sages Ravine. Every state as you go north gets expentionally harder, and Mass was so exception to the rule. The first climb we had out of the ravine was 700ft elevation in .7 miles. Thankfully the rock was dry. I stayed at th Tom Leonard Shelter with what was considered the coldest water on the trail in Mass. It was a climb down to the water, but it was worth it. This started a span of amazing days. The next night was spent at Upper Goose Pond Cabin, and free "shelter"-- really more of a house-- right on the pond with kayaks, canoes, docks and most importantly PANCAKES! Owned by the AMC, they staffed a voulenteer caretaker every week to look over the place. The family that was there considered it more of a free vacation. Drumsolo and I went for a long swim after our 20 mile day to a small island in the middle of the lake. We made it back just in time before the thunderstorm. The following day was spent en route to Dalton, Mass. where all of your money comes from. Dalton is famous for its paper mill that makes the paper that our currency is printed upon. The town is the home of another wonderful Trail Angel Tom Lavardi. His house was wide open with all who wander allowed in to refresh both there body and soul. He fed us ice cream!
        The last two days in Massachusetts held the biggest challenge in a while, Mt. Greylock. The inspiration of many great writers: Hawthorne, Thoreau, and Melville. This is the first 3000 footer since the Shenedoahs. In retrospect, the climb was not all that bad, but it marks an end of the easy mid-atlantic region and ushers in my favorite state on the trail...

Vermont

Gaaah! The AT runs the first 100~ miles of the Long Trail, the nation's oldest long distance hiking trail. It is in many ways the precursor and model for the Appalachian Trail. It felt so good to be home! Maple Syrup, Colby cheese, apple cider doughnuts, yum yum yum! The first mountain on the trail is Glastenbury, which right off the bat is 400 ft taller than Greylock. A distinct change is felt in Vermont, because for the first time in a while, there is a significant stretch of trail that is uninterupted by roads. It felt like the back country again. A day after there was Stratton, just short of 4000 ft. Stratton is said to be the birthplace of both the Long Trail and the Appalachian Trail. The thinker behind the AT, Benton MacKaye, was standing atop Stratton in the fire tower, and with the view of a giant, imagine a trail that would connect all of the major peaks, from Mount Washington all the way down to Mount Mitchell. For an educated mind, the mountain inspires serious thought. That is, if you have some food in your belly.
       A small side adventure, the following day spent atop Bromely Mountain, an abandoned ski lodge rests atop the mountain that a friend of mine, Darvey, had converted into a make-shift hostel/lean-to. There was no water on top, so in order to fill up, I had to walk down the mountain to the Alpine Sled, that let thru-hikers ride for free. I had never been alpine sledding before and had never heard of it, but I assure you it is a blast! You sit in a little cart with wheels and travel down a fiberglass track down the mountain, sort of like a luge. And at the bottom there was a little resort where you could fill up your water and take the gondola back up the mountain.
     The next big mountain was the second highest peak in Vermont, Killington. 4235 ft in the air, and a grueling rocky and rooty climb, was all worth it for one of the most sublime sunsets I have seen on the trail.  The next day I took a zero in Rutland with the Twelve Tribes' Hostel they run in town. Ask my mom or dad to tell you a little more about the Twelve Tribes. But they took me in with open airs and all the Yerba Mate I could drink. The two days headed east towards New Hampshire were tough. It was a 45 miles stretch of roller coasters a seldom views. But, the trail did pass over a bridge in West Hartford, VT that I found some local boys jumping off of into the water. When life offers you these oppurtunities, it is foolish to sit aside and watch. So I threw off my shirt and caution and plunged 20 ft off the bridge into the cool waters of the White River.

The next day I entered New Hampshire, but I will reserve a full post for this glorious state.

Rutland, Vermont (1680 miles)

I has been so long since I have had a chance to be on a computer. Despite the luxuries of the north, my hiking schedule has not permitted me to find time to write. It has been a long time since Wanyesboro so I will try to catch up.

Shenedoah

(Papa Bear, Myself, The Colonel, Shepard, Malarky, Burly, Jukebox

Second Row: Mama Bear, Nero, Pajamas, and ShooFly)

      The hiking resort of Virginia. The trail keeps you above 3000 ft; gentle trail without steep elevation or rock; waysides with soda, sandwiches, and treats every 20 miles. All of the animals were accoustomed to people. The deer would glance at me as I would walk by and continue eating. The weather was rather poor. Rain for 10 days and everything I had was soaked. There was safety from the rain though. A friend by the name of Burly, that I had met on my first day on the trail, had mentioned a long time ago his parents were traveling in an Airstream along side his thru-hike. Burly and I stuck together and his parents had planned to meet up with him on the trail and provide some trail magic. After many burgers, beans, hot dogs, and sodas we had renamed the Airstream the "BearStream".
     Northern Virginia continued as Harper's Ferry approached. The infamous Roller Coaster stood between me and the half-way point. The Roller Coaster is a 13 mile section with 10 ascents and descents. It's Virginia's way of not letting you forget her. I managed to survive and roll into Harper's Ferry as the 154 thru-hiker of the year!

Intermezzo
     I left with a crew of roudy boys to stay a few days at Jukebox's house outside of DC. Pizza, pools, Country Clubs, cook-outs, and sailing across the Chesepeake Bay. A fun 3 day stint in and out of the city, going to the smithsonian. I headed home to see my brother Elijah graduate from high school. It was very nourshing to see my family and Olive after such a long time. I wish I was there now!

Pennsylvania
      Also known as Rocksyvlania, Translvania for all of the rocks that make your feet bleed. This was the second time I has walked the whole state and it was anymore fun the second time.

3 minutes remaining! Oy vey! Part 2 will come soon...

Waynesboro, VA (845 miles)

Howdy there everybody! This is Chazaq writing to you from the public library (that is thankfully opened until 9:00 pm). It has been a little less than a month since I last wrote from Damascus. There was a rumor floating around that Virginia was flat-- let me assure you that is nothing but lies! Virginia has been much different terrain than the first 400 miles of the trail. I must tell you that spring has arrived! The canopy has come in. The dogwood bloomed, in the lower elevations the rhododendron has blossomed big pink flowers. The flora and the fauna have been revealed. I have seen Scarlet Tanagers, Cardinals, Robins, Grouse, Turkey, Blue Jays; Deer, Bunnies, Chipmunks, Bears!, a Rattlesnake (I nearly stepped on it!), Owls, Salamanders, Lizards, Ants, Ants, and Ants.

I have been hiking much more per day than I had early in the trip because Virginia seems to hypnotize-- after long strands of ridge-lines walks, beneath the canopy, one seems to go into sort of a trance with the steady rhythm of footsteps and the general hum of the forest, days go by. The people that I am hiking around lift the spirits on those days where the body does not reach serious elevation. There is a lot of music on the trail! Mandolins, Ukuleles, Harmonicas, and the our own voices. The trail has its own collections of standards-- a mix of folk, gospel, and blues.

I am doing great. My body is strong, my soul is at peace, and soon I will be home! I should arrive at Harper's Ferry (the psychological halfway point) within a fortnight. From there I will spend a few days in Annapolis and DC. Then on to Ocean City. There will be more pictures then. Until next time...

Damascus, VA: Pit Stop #2 (459.5 miles)

   Wow! How the times flies by! It has been more than a month since I have been able to update. As you can imagine, computers with internet come few and far between. I have so much to say, so let me start 4 weeks ago, just before I went into North Carolina.
    I left Hiawasee in the morning after a large breakfast of eggs, hash browns, and a half-dozen pancakes topped with the farms own home-made blueberry syrup. I resupplied out of Hiawasee with 3 days of food- 2 dinners, and 3 breakfasts + lunches- to take me all the way to Franklin, NC. The trail took a much different character as soon as I crossed the GA/NC line. I was met with 2 consecutive 750 ft 30% grade climbs. Grade is the angle the trail is inclined, so the higher the percent, the steeper. And usually on the trail, in order to alleviate hellish climbs, the trail maintainers will create switch backs. Switch backs trade off steepness for length. Rather than climbing straight up a ridge for .5 miles, you can make a switchback zig-zaging up the mountain to make a 1 mile climb. The good folks in North Carolina will have nothing of those, so I just climbed straight up. But once that was over, the trail eased out on top of the ridgeline. I was privilidge to watch the "Super Moon" rise on top of Standing Indian Mountain- along with a fire and a long poem recited by a hiker named Cheap Chardonnay that begun, "Strange things have been done, beneath the midnight sun..."
   The hiked big days into Franklin, an 18 mile day and then a 19 mile, because the trail leveled out to some extent and the terrain was easy. Not much to note of Franklin. I hitched a ride into town with a woman from New York City who drove down to North Carolina for therapeutic breathing classes. I resupplied for another 3 days to get me to Fontana Dam- the gateway to the Smokies. Although the ride in and out of town was long, I still was able to hike 15 miles that day to Wayah Bald. There I had my first experience with cowboy camping. On clear nights, when you know it will not rain, one can sleep out in the open. I slept in the grass in the cold win, with my sleeping bag head completely cinched, leaving on my eyes and nose poking out into the world to feast my eyes upon the rich starry sky.
  The next day took me less than half of mile before the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center). I decided to take a nero (near-zero) into there and spend the night in the bunk. I am glad I did because that night there were was a tornado down in the valley! I spent the day relaxing down by the river, watching kayakers paddle, and caught up on my journal.
   The next night was a tremendous 7 mile up hill back up the mountains. I must attribute my success to the half-dozen hard boiled eggs that I brought along with me. That night I tented further down the trail and woke up to snow!
    THE GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
   The park was easily the creme de la creme of the southern Appalachians. The trail spends most of the time upwards of 5,000 ft- peaking at 6400 at Clingman's Dome. I trail became far more strenuous with bigger climbs, harsher weather, and slippery terrain. I hiked out on my 5th day, and 4 of those days were rain. The hikers a week before got snow, and the hikers a week after got snow as well. I was on a off week. But despite the grim conditions, the Smokies are the last untouched forests in the South East. I spotted two white tail doe in the first 5 miles of the park. And since they do not allow hunting, the doe have no fear of humans. On my third day, I saw a lone coyote slinking his way back into the woods. The third day is the day there was no rain, and it made up for everything. The ridge walks had long long views. I could watch the thick clouds amble on through the valleys and engulf the lower peaks. (I will have pictures up hopefully tomorrow!)
   I must mention Gatlinburg. Imagine the Ocean City boardwalk: the Ripley tourist trap, mini-golf, airbrushed t-shirts, fudge and funnel cake. Now put that in a country town with the sublime backdrop of the Smoky Mountains. I only spent a few hours there getting food. It made me miss home.

NORTH CAROLINA/ TENNESSEE
  All good things must come to an end. I descended back into the regular state parks at meager elevations of 2,000 to 3,000. But it also meant that Hot Springs would be only 3 days away; the famous Hot Springs home of the therapeutic spa and baths- a shining beacon of light and hope after the weary hiking in the Smokies. But before I could get there, I was hit by the surprise April Fools' Snowstorm. On the 31st, I walked over Max Patch, in good weather is one of thru-hikers' favorite spots on the trail. But when I went over it, the weather did not let me see farther than 20 feet with a harsh wintery mix stinging my face with gusts of 40 mph. And the next morning there was 3 inches of snow, and a chilling cold. Snow makes for slow hiking because the ground is very slippery and the trail is harder to locate if there are not well blazed sections. But I managed to trudge through the snow to Hot Springs. The baths were stellar and cheap.
   But only 2 days after leaving Hot Springs, there was another snow storm! That day put me over Big Bald. I swear I felt like I was walking on the planet Hoth. The wind was so strong I could lean into it. But after building a big fire, I warmed up a bit. I resupplied in Erwin, TN off of extra food other hikers left behind in commons we call Hiker Boxes. Think of a Take a Penny- Leave a Penny, except with ramen noodles and instant mash potatoes. After leaving Erwin, I summited Roan Moutain- the last mountain over 6000 until I reach New Hampshire- a sweat pouring, exhausting climb.
  After a stroll over long, beautiful balds south of Roan, I stopped in at the famous Kincora $4 hostel, run by the illustrious Bob Peoples. He is a trail legend, known for his dedication to the trail as a maintainer, and his annual Hard Core Maintenance Crew who have, in the past, put up shelters in a day and a half. He is a good man. I curled up in a chair with a blanket by a wood stove for some hours.
  Following Kincora is a 50 miles section of trail known as the "Tennessee Super Highway". It is 50 miles of flat, gentle, ridge line walking straight into Damascus, VA. I did 17 miles the first day, but yesterday, I could not hold back and I walked the full 33 miles into town. I saw my first bear last night too! I was only 1.5 miles outside of town, and the sun had just set over the mountains, but there was still enough atmospheric light and light from the room to see. I heard a grunt and looked ahead of me. I saw 2 glowing eyes about 25 feet away from me, and a big silver body. The bear, once he saw me, galloped into the woods to the right with heavy steps. I did not have my headlamp on neck, so I just started to sing "Swing Low Sweet Chariot" as loud as I could, while I ran my butt into town. And now I am here. 3 states down, only 11 more to go!


I send my love to my friends and family back home. I will be in Damascus today and tomorrow. There is supposed to be an awful storm with 70 mph winds coming in tonight. So give me a call! If you don't have my number it is 443 614 2397. Love you!

First Pit Stop: Hiawasee, GA

Howdy there! I am writing this in the Hiaswasee Public Library in beautiful Georgia. The south seems to have been affected by an unseasonable warm streak. 84 degrees at the end of winter! I warmth makes for comfortable hiking. Although, since the leaves have not come in yet, the sun shines right through the tree. I caught myself a little sun burn on my lips and nose. It is my 5th day of hiking. I took a 5 mile nero (that is a near-zero; a zero day is when you do not hike at all) from Adiss Gap on the outskirts of the Tray Mountain Wilderness, up 1000ft in 1 mile, and down into Dicks Creek Gap. Then, hitchhiked 3.5 miles down the road to the Blueberry Patch Hiker Hostel-- a donation based hostel run by a christian husband and wife-- with showers, laundry, bunks, and a beautiful view into the country framed by the tall blueberry bushes, goats, and burros.
My hike started on Monday morning after a 12 hour Amtrak train ride from DC to Gainesville. I met my shuttle at 7 am in the morning outside the train station. His name was Eric and he hiked the AT in '04. He was a nomadic sort of guy, living out of his van. Every year around hiker season(mid-march to mid-april) he would come out to Georgia and give some hikers a lift. It was a 2 hour drive to Springer mountain. I started hiking at about 9. I made it up to the top of Springer and signed my name in the first trail log. Springer is the southern extreme of the AT, and for north-bound hikers such as myself, the beginning of the trail. It was cold and the morning fog had yet to be burned off by the sun. That first day I hiked 15 miles, staying at the Gouch Mtn Shelter. The shelter was crowed (of course) so I set up tent near-by. It started to rain in the middle of the night. I woke in the morning to find the bottom half of my sleeping bag wet. I had set up my tent in what had become in the middle of the night a puddle. So the water seeped through the bottom lining and soaked my sleeping bad and everything else on my bottom tarp. I now had an incentive of necessity to get to the Mountain Crossing at Walasi-Yi because they had a dryer. The reason for my rush is that if a down bag stays wet too long, it clumps together and looses all its insulating function. It had continued to rain all that night and well into the day. I was hiking faster than I normally would, robbed by all the vistas by the thick fog and rain. That day put me over Blood Mountain, an old site of a bloody battle said to have made the ground run red. But I made it to the dryers and just in time too, because that evening a church group was serving a free dinner. Lasagna, vegetables, and quite possibly the best pecan pie I will every have, seeing that it was made by a gentle, church-going southern mother.
Since the rain, the past 2 days have been warm and easy. Wednesday was 17 miles, and Thursday was 13 respectably, evening out to my 15 mile avg.
I have not seen any animals larger than a squirrel. I saw few field mice, chipmunks, warblers. It sounds sometimes like there are the nocturnal critters outside my tent, opossum and raccoon, but I do not trust my ears enough to discern them from the sounds of the wind against the leaves.
Believe it or not, I do not have a single blister. My choice to wear running shoes was the best choice I made. The views are beautiful. The fresh mountain air is making my lungs larger. My knees are a little sore, but nothing a few ibuprofen cannot handle. I will be in North Carolina tomorrow afternoon considering it is only 9 miles down the trail.

Got my back pack today!

This beautiful little guy, weighing in at 2lbs 7oz will be accompanying me on my adventure through the heart of America. With my sleeping bag and my tent, my base weight is shy of 8lbs. I really like the structure; it fits on my back well. All I need now are clothes and a stove. Then comes the much larger task of organizing my resupply itinerary of food. This will be the blog I will use on the trail to give everyone a heads up as to how I am doing.

MARCH 13th! A one-way train ticket to Gainesville, GA from DC.